ANCORA: puts on the style

Ancora, Chadderton

THERE'S one thing for certain, the name might be unfamiliar but judging by a packed car park last weekend, the dining public are having no trouble finding their way to Ancora.

If I tell you that it used to be the landmark Red Barn pub on Broadway, most of you will know exactly where the latest addition to the San Rocco - Bella Vista - Wine Press stable is situated.

The packed car park was echoed by a bustling, lively atmosphere inside with the bar having stayed in its front-on position to the traditional main entrance.

In the old Red Barn days it was a pub at ground level and food/ carvery upstairs - now it's food throughout with just the bar area as a waiting reception.

We got drinks and were promptly shown to our table for two by smart and polite staff, climbed the steep staircase, and then turned back on ourselves to the far side of the U-shaped dining area

The menu is, as can be expected from its stablemates, varied and appetising. We went for large field mushrooms filled with feta cheese and spinach (£3.75) and fishcakes with a chilli sauce (£4.50), the former just getting top vote for its contrasts of texture but both hot and tasty.

I was in steak mode so opted for a fillet steak in a peppercorn sauce (£15.45) and asked for it to be cooked to Mrs W's medium to well rather than my preferred medium rare as we were likely to swap.

I knew when I saw salmon with a white wine and lobster sauce on the menu that that would be our other and, sure enough, it came with a delightful terrine of sauteed vegetables - cabbage, peppers, onions, leeks - and roasted potatoes, though we did see later meals go out with plain broccoli and carrots as accompaniments.

Our gain because they were delicious. I have to say that the steak was beautifully tender despite the extra time cooking and it was with some reluctance that the deal-or-no-deal decision was a change - neither of us was disappointed as the salmon too was melt-in-the-mouth and had not had the flavour cooked out of it at all.

We were having a quite splendid meal, but we became aware that others around were not quite so fortunate.

There were larger groups who seemed to be having to wait an inordinate amount of time between courses.

It did make us wonder whether having dining on both levels was possible. The kitchen staff were certainly stretched - as were the efficient if somewhat rushed staff front of house.

Our longer wait before ordering a sweet was actually welcomed, just long enough in fact to convince us to finish off with strawberries and ice cream and profiteroles at £3.75 each.

We rounded off with a couple of coffees and with drinks the bill totalled just over £60.

It will be interesting to see how Ancora addresses its staffing and service issues but if it gets it right it certainly has a large catchment area all to itself for Italian cuisine in that corner of the borough.

Just don't leave it too long to sort it. Word travels fast. Otherwise, on our food alone, definitely worth another visit.

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