LOWRY: Touch of class in the city

THERE is always something quite imposing about a central staircase and such greets you entering the city centre's Lowry Hotel.

The climb takes you serenely into the River bar where immaculate staff greet you with a smile.

We perused the drinks menu of its three-figure champers... but didn't want to give the boss a heart attack... and opted for a beer (£4, bottled only) and a white wine and lemonade (£6).

Don't forget this is Manchester style and city centre prices.

Having studied the menu and the bar's inhabitants Ñ-I know jeans are chic for the rich but they still look scruffy - we were escorted through to the main River restaurant, full of anticipation at tasting executive chef Eyck Zimmer-s latest menu.

The large dining area with its bold art, giant floral arrangements and views over the inner waterside development is busy if not bustling.

We had glimpsed the menu in the bar beforehand but now it was decision time.

The eclectic is an explosion of culinary artistry, each dish complemented and contrasted in its colour, texture and taste.

Mrs W went for the pumpkin soup with chestnut and foie gras croute (£8.50).

The chestnuts were deposited into a large, empty flattened bowl into which the soup was poured from a tight-necked jug.

Hence, piping hot at your table. Both practical and theatrical.

The nutty croutons gave the soup a real kick, though Mrs W was not taken with the foie gras, so I did the honourable thing and devoured it. So strong flavoured.

My choice had been potted salmon that came under the thinnest possible slither of toast with crab atop and accompanied by cucumber and lemon foam (£10.50). So refreshing and light.

Other tempters included pressed game terrine, roast sea scallops, and smoked eel.

We did not have to wait long for our main courses, little surprising we had bypassed the risotto and gnocchi for fish and meat options.

Our fish choice was a toss-up between roast cod with choucroute and wood roasted pepper or poached halibut with red wine syrup and candied hazelnut (both 19.50) and when Mrs W saw the former she was delighted with her choice - so much so that a mere single-fork taste was all I got rather than the usual 50/50.

It looked fabulous and matched that for taste.

Not that there were any complaints from the meat corner.

I could have gone for pork cutlet with aubergine puree, roasted squab pigeon with liquorice scented jus, or roast loin of venison with barley and celeriac but, in the end, chose fillet of Cheshire beef with smoked bacon jus and horseradish mash (£24).

The fillet, as you would have every right to expect in such an establishment, sliced at the touch of the knife and it was pleasingly presented on a bed of very, very tasty spinach with two celeriac bulbs astride.

I could go on about the horseradish mash - facial expressions aplenty - but suffice to say ordinary mash will never taste the same again.

On the advice of the waiter we had also ordered a side dish of broccoli and a single stem was all that was left along with two empty plates.

The portions were not oversized but it goes to show that quality counts. We had had plenty.

We rested a while before rounding off our meal with a winter berry crumble and coffees with petis fois.

We don't go out of your way to look for faults in a meal. But, if we had, we would still not have found any.

Food and service of this standard comes at a price - it came to £88 without drinks - but you could spend that sort of money in many a venue and not get half the enjoyment.

If you want a taste of the hi-life, it is just a few miles down the road into the city. Let me know if you try the pigeon and liquorice.

 

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