SIMPLY CLOUGH'S: claim for top spot

Clough Manor, Denshaw

A TOP-CLASS heavyweight contender is now flexing its muscles at the very top end of the local dining out scene.

A big-money refurbishment has placed Clough Manor at Denshaw into the upper echelons of the price bracket. But this is no here-today-gone-tomorrow pretender, this is a champion elect.

And judging by Saturday night's full restaurant, there is no shortage of takers wanting to taste the culinary creations.

What struck us, was the lengths that top modern chefs go to to come up with combinations that are not just tasty but look stunning, too.

One of our main courses, in particular, was just an explosion of different tastes that was quite sensational. But more of that later.

We had arrived at the old La Pergola to find a packed car park with functions already on the go in the hotel.

We had a drink in the very sophisticated bar areaa theme carried forward once taken to our table in the near-by restaurant across the reception area.

The restaurant occupies two areas, cleverly split by glass affording most a chance to glimpse the stunning views over the local countryside.

But there was artistry to view much closer as the starters arrived, the staff double-teamed to carry and serve.

I had opted for ravioli of west coast crab with bok choy, lemon grass and ginger butter (£7.95) - a stunning plump singlet that was oh so refreshing.

Maybe I could have eaten two had there been another.

Mrs W chose slow roast belly of Gloucestershire old spot pork with butternut squash puree (£6.50) with the caramelised onions coming in a small jug that was creatively poured by the waitress to make sure it was piping hot on arrival. Attention to detail.<$> And acclaimed, too.

The aforementioned taste explosion came in Mrs W's Tuna nicoise served with boiled potatoes, quail eggs, green beans, pesto and peppers (£16.50).

Mine was another touch of creative genius. I'd gone for mutton (£16.50) with cous cous that came wrapped in a cabbage leaf ball that revealed a tangy, delicious inner.

We had extra portions of chunky chips (we don't have chips at home) and mangetout (£2 each) and roasted tomatoes with balsamic vinegar that could possibly be the best £3 ever spent on food.

The waitress asked if we had finished. I think she was being polite as all that was left were two chips and the vine of the tomatoes.

We rounded off our night out with a cheese board with currant cake and oat biscuits (£7.50) and an apple creme brulee (£5.95) and two coffees.

The only fault I could report was a double delay in a drinks order but that was no more than a blip.

As I said, out of some price ranges at £85. But if it's for a special occasion, it's a taste of the good life.

For those more fortunate who can afford to dine regularly at this level of establishment, they have certainly got another big player to add to their select list.

Have you dined here? Give us your comments in the box below