CEDAR TREE: still going strong

Cedar Tree, Newhey

NEWCOMERS on the restaurant scene often set off with grand ideas of world domination - alright not world but you get the gist - and proclaim the highest of standards from the off.

For some, they are heights never to be achieved.

For others they may live up to such claims one day . . . but not yet.

Well, in the case of the Cedar Tree at Newhey, it has not only achieved a quality many can only dream about, it has managed to sustain excellence year on year.

It is coming up to eight years since host Rachel Holt enabled the Cedar Tree to take root in little old Newhey, and ask most people who think they know their food on the local dining out circuit and they will certainly know exactly where to find it.

Perched as it is on the end of the row of shops, it's almost like being invited into someone's front room. Twenty-something and it's full but it's warm, inviting and has a strange sort of privacy as the tables fit horseshoe-style around the inner bar to avoid too much involuntary involvement in other people's evening.

What you have to know from the outset at the Cedar Tree is that this is not a quick bite and off for a night on the town.

This 'is' the night out - no 'will you take your coffee at the bar, sir' so that they can squeeze another set of covers.

Table sittings are staggered to allow those in the kitchen to concentrate their efforts on each and every set of diners in turn.

And it shows in beautifully cooked and presented dishes that are eclectic but perfectly matched all the same.

Take the starters, where you can got from Bury (black pudding) to Scotland (smoked salmon) and further afield to tandoori chicken skewers and Asian-style spare ribs.

Mrs W had an eye for the latter (£4.95) and the menu's description of meaty spare ribs was certainly lived up to with four chunky specimens that took a bit of handling with honey and star anise - well fingers is the only way to attack them.

It did confuse the waitress somewhat when she arrived midcourse to find I was finishing off the ribs but she was too polite to question the switch.

I had gone for the baked field mushrooms with warm goats cheese and chilli and lemon dressing, same price, and though the swap did take place I did have a yearning to finish the dish myself, such were the delights of the succulent vegetables and the contrasting warm cheese. Ensemble I had spotted the black pudding early on but a chance meeting with an old friend some time ago criticised me for Òalways going for the black pudding if itÕs thereÓ. So I didnÕt, so there! As mentioned earlier, there is a real gentle pace to the whole evening that might not suit some but allowed us to natter and drink between courses. For main course, Mrs W went for the pan-fried pork medallions with red onion mash and a creamy wholegrain mustard sauce (£12.95). She is not a big fan of pork when served plain Ñ too dry Ñ but this was a splendid creamy ensemble and went down a treat. I quite fancied a steak and was dithering between rump and sirloin Ñ I was even offered a piece of fillet if neither fitted the bill Ñ but in the end went for locally-sourced prime 10oz sirloin steak with melted stilton, crushed potatoes and a rich port jus (£16.95). I must have been going through a cheese phase. We were both impressed how neither meal overfaced us but we were certainly well fed as the last remnants were eaten. Clean plates all round. As they used to say at school Òwell you two can play out then!Ó We rounded off with a superb summer berry crumble and cheese and biscuits with latte coffees for what was a meal worthy of a hard-worked for and thoroughly deserved reputation. With drinks we settled a bill of just under £70 Ñ and thatÕs for a whole night out! Note to diary: book again as soon as the menu changes, as it does seasonally.