RAM'S HEAD: delights at the occasion

Reporter: David Whaley
Date published: 30 January 2009


A GLIMPSE into the wonderful world of the good old fashioned deli - or to give it its full title the delicatessen - gives you an insight into what's awaiting you at the delightful Rams Head, Denshaw.

That the deli and the restaurant combine to serve up the best of both worlds for us the customer is just part of the charm of the chalkboard menu as you stand and peruse a whole host of unusual dishes.

Where the Rams Head scores massively, is its ability to utilise the very freshest of ingredients and the less mainstream of meats and fishes straight from its own source.

This brings a fluidity to the menu boards that would be almost impossible to achieve on a daily basis elsewhere.

We both knew that the popular bistro-style venue on the road out towards the motorway from Denshaw was renowned for its fish and I think with that in mind we had both preselected that part of the menu for our attention.

But I have to say that I have rarely come across such a wide selection of main dishes that appealed- from roast hams to Mallard from Monkfish to Goosenargh chicken.

It is easy to see why those who have this among their favourite restaurants can go back time and again - and not once having to repeat a selection.

With fish already in the thought process it enabled me to have no qualms about going for the unusual sight of sausage and mash as a starter.

When it came it was the most firm-to-cut banger on mash that was smothered in a mustard gravy that had a real kick.

So much so that I was able to eat the lot as Mrs W found the contrast between it and her selection of a wild mushroom risotto with camembert too much for the palette.

I could see where she was coming from but had no complaints at all in polishing off mine solo.

For her part, Mrs W reported that the flavours and textures were excellent and well and truly devoured.

With hindsight, I think Mrs W might have slightly over-cheesed - it was me who did that some months ago with a triple-cheese choice - when she opted for oven baked cod.

The fish inside was light and moist but I think she was somewhat relieved to a do our usual swap and tackle the second half of my devine sea bass fillets to which the pesto just added to the sensation.

We ordered a side dish of some hand-cut chips and vegetables - carrots, green beans and broccoli - and after a few minutes break had just enough room for a sticky toffee pudding and chef-s special bread and butter pudding (couldn't fault either) and a couple of floater coffees as we sat and chatted in a very relaxed atmosphere.

The bill came to just under £70 but the standard of the whole evening - from ingredients to staff and from presentation to setting in the charming character of the olde inn rooms - was of the highest order, worth every penny.