WAGGON: specials are a big hit

Reporter: David Whaley
Date published: 30 January 2009


IT is interesting how word of good food spreads. Recently, I have heard several people say they understand from the upper reaches of the unilateral republic of Saddleworth that the Waggon Inn at Uppermill is proving popular.

Let's go and check it out then, we said, fortunate to sneak an early Saturday-evening booking into their busy book, which suited our plans perfectly.

So off we went, just managing to grab the last parking spot in the Museum car park opposite, before heading into the watering hole that has been serving travellers since 1882.

The restaurant is a 40-covers long room to the right of the bar with other smaller rooms and the now obligatory giant- screen tv to pull in the punters.

We just had enough time to order a drink before the young and efficient waitress showed us to our table, midway towards the impressive decorated fireplace at the far end.

Pleasant aromas were already evident from the kitchen.

At first glance I thought the menu was a touch basic with regular pub fayre of pies, chilli, lasagne etc but this was certainly made up for with a quite splendid selection of specials, both starters and mains.

My eye was immediately taken with red snapper but I could just as easily gone for the hake or a rib-eye steak and Mrs W immediately plumped for fillet of duck.

The starters were also varied and, in the end, I went for a double-fish option by choosing mackerel fishcakes.

Two, round and thick, duly arrived and I was impressed by the firmness of the consistency without being stodgy.

All too often they either fall apart at the first sight of a knife or are too much cake and not enough fish, leading to a lack of flavour.

Neither accusation here and delicious with a cheese dip, crunchy side salad and mayonnaise.

Mrs W had gone for smoked salmon parcels, the filling for which was cream cheese and chives. Tasty but a little too much filling for my liking.

Very unusually, Mrs W had to admit that I had made the better choice.

Blimey, the new year is looking up!

We ordered another glass of wine and very soon the snapper and duck followed on.

The two fillets looked a marvellous colour as they sat resplendent on a large potato rosti and there was a tomato salsa which had a real kick to it and was a well-chosen accompaniment to the fish.

The meal also came with large-cut chips and a side salad but I was also able to take advantage of a generous portion of vegetables that came with the duck.

This was five thick slices that had to be attacked to cut but were juicy and tasty.

We could have gone for desserts of the cold variety but when it's freezing outside it really is difficult to resist apple pie and treacle sponge, both with custard.

Good job the diet didn't start until Monday. Just over the £50 mark for three courses, all worthy of note and in pleasant surroundings.

All tables full as we left. Bet the regulars won't like me telling you about it.

 

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