ROSE of LANCASTER: Smiles better

Reporter: DAVID WHALEY
Date published: 15 January 2010


ROSE OF LANCASTER,
Haigh Lane,
Chadderton
0161 624 3031
IT is always good to walk into a restaurant that is busy and bustling.
And that was certainly the case when we arrived at the large JW Lees pub/restaurant on the Chadderton-Middleton border on a recent Saturday night.


There were very few spaces on the large car park and it was the same in the lounge bar to the left which you walk through and then down a couple of steps into the spacious dining area.


We were shown straight to our table that was one of the last to be occupied and ordered drinks while we studied the printed menu and the blackboard for the specials.


I liked the introduction on the menu which read 'Our menu is all about good, honest pub food. We're not trying to be fancy, we're a Northern brewer and we're sticking to what we know best.' So now you know.


Well actually, they are too modest. This is very good food that happens to be served in a pub environment. And what's wrong with that. Absolutely nothing - and there's certainly nothing wrong when it comes to the bill.


Chicken goujons is not something I would often plump for on starters but a sweet chilli dip tempted me and I was more than satisfied with the chunky pieces and crisp - and very fresh - side salad.

Mrs W had gone for pate, a chicken liver and Cointreau combination that was described as giving it a zesty twist. A real kick and the lightly toasted ciabatta was a fine accompaniment.


If you are looking for something a bit different, they also offer a few 'shared starter' options and on another visit we think we might well try one of the combos - Eastern or Vegetarian or even the Mexican nachos or Chilli nachos for a change.


There is an equally splendid variety of choices when it comes to the main courses with such home-cooked types as braised, steak, Fisherman's pie and bangers and mash.
I was in steak mode and the 10oz locally-supplied rump came with succulent mushrooms, tomato, chunk chips and garden peas.


There was an optional sauce of either cracked pepper, Stilton or Diane.
Myself and one of the friends we were with both had Stilton and one of the two small gravy boats would have sufficed.

But it was just the kick the meal needed. Mrs W had gone Oriental with a chicken and steak sizzler with stir-fried vegetables and a powerful dose of hoisin sauce, served with rice. Empty plate. Very impressed.


The portions were not over-facingly large but we were all-but full and I think the sweets in the name of research were a mistake.
We had a bread and butter pudding and a chocolate fudge cake but did neither the justice they deserved. Not the chef's fault, just eyes bigger than belly.

Overall, a pleasant evening in relaxed surroundings eating excellent, great value food (£60 including drinks).
Oh and I must mention the team of young waiters and waitresses.
Very busy yet efficient, polite, happy in their work and chatty when they served us.

Other supposedly more upmarket establishments could certainly learn from that.
A smile costs nothing. And a miserable waitress can turn a meal sour.