VALENTINO'S: Classical Italian setting

VALENTINO'S RISTORANTE,

8 Retiro Street

Oldham

OL1 1SA

0161-624 6002

IT'S now over 12 years since Sebastian and Anna opened Valentino's, tucked away on Retiro Street adjoining the main thoroughfares of Union Street and Yorkshire Street.

In that time they have created their own little corner of Italia. I go in there from time to time for lunch and it's like being welcomed into their very own dining room.

And over the years what has changed as you go through the unassuming entrance? Well, very little really and nor should it when you have the magic formula of friendly faces, relaxing atmosphere and sound cuisine.

I'm sure many a marketing guru could - and for all I know has - gone to them telling how going for a chic modern Italia wine bar look could bring them rich pickings. Really?

Thank goodness for all who rejoice in Valentino's that the modernists have not had their way and that traditional red, white and green rules to this day.

We went on a busy Saturday night, pre-booked, and as so often it was already a buzzing hive of activity when we were greeted inside the door by the ever alert and charming Anna.

Straight to our table and as we studied the menu you begin the take in the aromas from the food around and from the kitchen at the bottom of the galley-shaped establishment.

We had gone with friends who are avid Italian foodies and we decided against a garlic bread appetiser so as not to fill us too quickly.

I went for a chicken-filled pancake which was tasty but could have done with something to give it a bit of a kick. Mrs W chose scallops with cheese and mustard which came served delightfully inside a shell.

Not an over large portion but sufficient and very well received. If my starter was missing the 'zing' then it came in abundance in choosing veal stuffed with cheese, chilli and wrapped in ham. Three neat parcels of dynamite. Marvellous.

Mrs W went for chicken with mushrooms, cracked black pepper and brandy cream and there were plenty of roasted potatoes, carrots and cabbage.

Just before the main course came, one of our guests, mindful of the saucy mains to come, requested we add a garlic bread with cheese. I asked if we could 'throw one in' and was told they would even cook it too.

Well it certainly came in handy as we all got the last of the sauces from around the plates. Quite splendid food. Our guests declined desserts but as we are forced to do so to make this a three-course review they were martyrs to the cause and took an extra spoon to help with profiteroles and strawberry cheesecake. Coffees followed, a couple more drinks, no rush, just over £60 a couple is not over

-priced and then it was a taxi off into the night. If I had one niggle it is that some of the service was not as attentive as it could have been, empty glasses is in nobody's interests.

It's always good to go somewhere new and find a gem.... but it's equally great to go back to somewhere you know has good quality food and find that standards have not been allowed to drop.